Why Compost?

Composting converts kitchen and garden waste into rich organic matter that dramatically improves soil structure, drainage and plant nutrition. It also diverts waste from landfill where it produces methane. Most Australian councils offer discounted or free compost bins — check your council’s website before buying.

Types of Home Composting

  • Compost bin (most common): A plastic bin sitting directly on soil. Simple, low-effort, works for most kitchen and garden waste.
  • Open compost pile: A heap in the corner of the garden. Larger volume, faster decomposition with turning, no bin cost.
  • Worm farm (vermicompost): Worms process food scraps into worm castings (exceptional fertiliser) and liquid (diluted 1:10 for plants). Better for small spaces, apartments and balconies.
  • Bokashi: Ferments all kitchen scraps including meat and dairy in a sealed bucket. Faster than traditional composting, no smell, suits small kitchens.

Starting a Compost Bin

  1. 1

    Choose a location and set up the bin

    Place the bin directly on soil (not concrete) in a partly shaded spot — too much sun dries it out; too much shade slows decomposition. Direct soil contact allows worms and microbes to enter from the ground.

  2. 2

    Understand greens and browns

    Greens (nitrogen-rich, moist): Fruit and vegetable scraps, coffee grounds, tea bags, fresh grass clippings, plant prunings. Browns (carbon-rich, dry): Dry leaves, cardboard (torn small, no glossy coating), egg cartons, newspaper, paper bags, straw, wood chips. Aim for roughly equal volumes of greens and browns. Too many greens without browns = slimy and smelly. Too many browns without greens = slow decomposition.

  3. 3

    Add materials and keep moist

    Add kitchen scraps and balance with browns after each addition. The pile should feel like a wrung-out sponge — moist but not dripping. In dry weather, add water. In wet weather, cover with a lid or brown materials to prevent waterlogging.

  4. 4

    Turn every 1–2 weeks to speed up decomposition

    Turning (mixing the pile with a garden fork or compost aerator) introduces oxygen, which aerobic bacteria need to break down organic matter. Without turning, decomposition happens slowly over 6–12 months. With weekly turning, finished compost can be ready in 2–3 months.

What NOT to Compost

Avoid: meat, fish and bones (attract pests), dairy products, diseased plant material, pet waste, anything treated with pesticides, glossy paper, weeds that have seeded (seeds may survive).

Common problems and fixesSmelly pile: too many greens, add browns and turn. Dry and not decomposing: add water and greens. Attracting pests: avoid meat/dairy, bury food scraps in the centre of the pile, use a bin with a lid. Not breaking down: add more greens, chop materials smaller, turn more frequently.

Frequently Asked Questions

Yes — a worm farm or Bokashi bin works indoors or on a balcony. Worm farms are odour-free when managed correctly and fit under a kitchen bench. The liquid produced (diluted worm wee) is excellent fertiliser for pot plants. Bokashi processes all food scraps including meat and dairy in a sealed container — the fermented output can be buried in soil, added to a compost bin (if available), or given to someone with a garden. Many councils also offer kitchen scraps collection services.
Finished compost looks and smells like rich, dark soil — not identifiable food or garden waste. It crumbles easily, has an earthy smell (not rotting or ammonia), and is uniformly dark brown. Original materials should not be recognisable. If you can still identify food scraps, leave it longer. Use finished compost in garden beds by digging it in, or as mulch around plants.