Diagnose the Leak Location First
- Leak at the connection point (where head meets arm): The most common. Usually fixed with PTFE tape — the existing tape has worn out or was not applied correctly. See Method 1.
- Dripping from the nozzle holes when the shower is off: Water trapped inside slowly draining — normal for 30–60 seconds after shutoff. If it continues for minutes, the shower valve or diverter is worn and needs attention.
- Continuous drip from nozzles: The shower valve (controlled by the tap handle) is not fully closing. The valve cartridge or washer needs replacing — similar to fixing a dripping tap.
Method 1: Fix Connection Leak with PTFE Tape
- 1
Turn off the water and unscrew the shower head
Turn the shower fully off. Unscrew the shower head from the arm by turning anticlockwise. Protect the finish by wrapping the head with a cloth before using a spanner if needed.
- 2
Remove old tape and clean threads
Remove any old PTFE tape from the shower arm thread. Clean the threads with an old toothbrush to remove any debris or mineral deposits.
- 3
Wrap 3–4 layers of PTFE tape clockwise
Starting from the first thread, wrap PTFE tape clockwise (the same direction you screw on the head) around the threads, overlapping each wrap. Apply 3–4 layers — enough to fill the thread gaps. Pull the tape snug as you wrap so it seats into the threads.
- 4
Refit and test
Hand-tighten the shower head until snug, then a further half to three-quarter turn with a spanner (cloth-protected). Turn water on and check for leaks at the connection. If still dripping, add another layer of PTFE tape.
Method 2: Replace the O-Ring (Internal Leak)
If the leak is inside the shower head connection fitting: unscrew the head, look inside the connection for a rubber O-ring. If it is cracked, flattened or missing, replace it with an identical-sized O-ring from a hardware store ($1–3). Smear a little plumber’s grease on the new O-ring before fitting.